Yarn and the fabric produced therefrom



Nov. 12,, 1935. u m 2,020,907

YARN AND THE FABRIC PRODUCE 2D THEREFROM Filed Feb. 20, 1935 LOW TWISTFIBRE SILK 7O urns left-banded rigM-bandecl twisting 15 turns rigbt-bomded lefi-ba'ndecl twisting 15 :urns

.sieaming YARN FOR WEAVING INVENTOR Mun-0N H.Rua

ATTORNEY Patented Nov. 12, 1935 U NlTED STATES PATENT OFFICE YARN ANDTHE FABRIC PRODUCED THEREFROM Milton H. Rubin, New York, N. Y., assignorto American Silk Mills, Inc., New York, N. Y.

Application February 20, 1933, Serial No. 657,616

12 Claims.

This invention relates to yarns and fabrics produced therefrom.

.fabric together. There results the surface contouring of a pile efiectinherent in crepe fabrics. For this production of fabrics of this type,it thereby becomes requisite to have a yarn capable =of being twistedseverely so that, when woven,

the consequent release and piling will be produced. Certain yarns, whichhave inherent properties making them highly desirable for crepe fabrics,have not hitherto been applicable for that purpose. Among the reasonsfor this condition is the fact that such yarns may not have imparted tothem any considerable twist. Among these yarns are specifically includedthe artificial silk or rayon yarns of the acetate classification, andparticularly, one known commercially as Celanese. This property hashitherto made it practically an impossibility to produce with such yarnsany fabric having the effects of a crepe fabric.

It is an object of the invention to provide a yarn, especially for usein making crepe fabrics, that yarn having as a base element, fibres ofartificial silk of the acetate classification. In one of itsapplications, the inventioh utilized a yarn which, as finallyconstructed, had a core of fibres of "Celanese. About that core, a.thread or threads of silk were twisted. The Celanese fibre itself waspractically without any twist,

' while the silk thread was in a state of a very high degree of twist.When a yarn, thus formed, is woven into a fabric and. the weavingtension and any other tensions on the threads released, thehighlytwisted silk thread immediately tends to contract, exerting atensioning force upon the fabric acting to reduce the effective lengthof the fabric. As the yarn, by its spinning, places the silk andCelanese fibres in a definite relationship to each other, it resultsthat, even though the. Celanese fibre continues in substantially acondition of having no twisting torque applied thereto, the silk fibre,by its twisted relationship to the Celanese fibre, in contracting, willbe effective to draw the Celanese fibres along with it, creping thosefibres crepe fabric.

Other objects of this invention will hereinafter into the effect of a beset forth, or will be apparent from the description and the drawing, inwhich are illustrated certain features in connection'with applicationsof the invention.

The invention, however, is not intended to be restricted to anyparticular construction or arrangement of parts, or to any particularapplication of any such construction, or to any specific method ofoperation, or manner of use, or to any of various details thereof,herein shown and described, as the same may be modified in variousparticulars or be applied in many variedrelations without departing fromthe spirit and scope of the claimed invention, the practical embodimentsherein illustrated and described merely showing some of-the variousfeatures entering into the application of the invention.

Onthe drawing, in which the same reference characters refer to the sameparts throughout:

Fig. 1 illustrates diagrammatically certain steps in the production of ayarn, embodying certain features of the invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevational view of a portion of yarn made in accordancewith certain details of the invention, to enlarged. scale;

Fig. 3' is a transverse cross-sectional view, on the line 3--3 of Fig.2;

Fig. 4 is a plan view, and

Fig. 5 is a view in vertical cross-section, on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4,of a portion of a fabric woven from yarn made as herein provided.

The invention will be described in connection with the production of onespecific embodiment, a yarn produced fromfCelanese fibres ill the twistof which, as delivered from its manufacturers, is normally about fiveturns twist per inch, right-handed. Such fibres are subjected to atwisting operation in which they are excessively twisted, for that gradeof thread, for instance, in the case here noted, to the number offifteen turns twist per inch, right-handed, to 40 provide yarn indicatedat l2 on the diagram of Fig. l. The yarn so produced, while still on itsbobbin, is immersed in water at low temperature, being maintainedpreferably at about 10 C. Immersion is continued for a period of abouttwo and one-half hours, after which the yarn is dried and rewound,providing the yarn indicated [4 on the diagram.

For this particular embodiment, there is prepared a. silk thread havingabout seventy turns 50 twist per inch, left-handed, indicated at I 6 onthe diagram. Yarn l4, twisted and set in the manner'indicated, and silkyarnv 16 are now twisted together, and the composite yarn; so producedand indicated as l8 on the diagram, is 55 which is capable of receivingsuch excessive twist,

additionally and approximately up to eighty-five turns twist per inch,left-handed, becomes effective to reduce the twisted condition of theCelanese yarn substantially to a condition of zero twist.

This composite yarn was then set by a steaming operation, the yarn beingsubjected to the hot'vapor for a time not longer than one hour. Afterthe yarn has been processed in this manner, it is dried and rewound,whereupon it is ready for use in weaving.

Specific characteristics. of the yarn are found in the fact that thesilk fibres are twisted approximately twenty-five turns per inch abovetheir normal condition before weaving. When woven, the fibres willsharply contract. Being tightly bound up with the Celanese fibres aboutwhich they are twisted, the contraction of the silk fibres will exert aforce upon the Celanese fibres, drawing them along in the generalcontraction of the fabric. As indicated in Figs. 2 and 3, while Celaneseyarn I4, after being brought to the substantially untwisted condition ofyarn 18, extends practically in a straight line without having anytorque of twist acting thereon, silk yarn I6 is essentially wrappedhelically around the "Celanese yarn. The thickness of the Celanese maybe many times that of the silk yarn, yet the torque and contracti've.effort resulting from the silk yarn will be sufficient to draw down theCelanese yarn, and force it to assume the full effect of a crepe fabric.

With a yarn of the character finally produced,

fabrics may be woven having pile characteristics varying from that ofcrepe fabrics to that of an imitation velvet, such factors as proportionof float determining this characteristic. A piece of fabric 20, havingsome of the latter characteristics, is shown in Figs. 4 and 5.

Many other changes could be effected in the particular features of yarnand fabric designed, and in methods of operation set forth, and inspecific details thereof, Without substantially departing from theinvention intended to be defined in the claims, the specific descriptionherein merely serving to illustrate certain elements by which, in oneembodiment, the spirit of the invention may be eifectuated.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

1. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein one of the constituents of the yarn is a fibre of celluloseacetate not elastically responsive when subjected to a high degree oftwist, the steps of twisting the cellulose acetate fibre slightly inexcess of the degree to which it is normally twisted, setting the fibrein that twisted condition by immersing it in cold water, twisting to ahigh degree and in the direction opposite to the twist of the celluloseacetate fibre a fibre capable of sustaining such a high degree oftwisting and remaining substantially elastically responsive when sotwisted, and then twisting together the two fibres by twisting them inthe direction of twist of the highly twisted fibre.

2. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein one of the constituents of the yarn is a fibre of celluloseacetate not elastically responsive when subjected to a high degree oftwist, the steps of: twisting the cellulose acetate fibre slightly inexcess of the degree to which it is normally twisted, setting the fibrein that twisted condition by immersing it in water at about 10 C.,twisting to a high degree and in the direction opposite to the twist 5of the cellulose acetate fibre a fibre capable of sustaining such a highdegree of twisting'and remaining substantially elastically. responsivewhen so twisted, and then twisting together the two fibres by twistingthem in the direction of 10 twist of the highly twisted fibre.

3. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein one of the constituents of the yarn is a fibre of celluloseacetate not elastically responsive when sub- 15 jected to a high degreeof twist, the steps of: twisting the cellulose acetate fibre slightly inexcess of the degree to which it is normally twisted, setting the fibrein that twisted condition by immersing it in water, drying the fibre,twisting 20 to a high degree and in the direction opposite to the twistof the cellulose acetate fibre silk fibre capable of sustaining such ahigh degree of twisting and remaining substantially elasticallyresponsive when so twisted, and then twisting 25 together the two fibresby twisting them in the direction of twist of the silk fibre.

4. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein one of the constituents of the yarn is a fibre of celluloseacetate 30 not elastically responsive when subjected to a high degree oftwist, the steps of: twisting the cellulose acetate fibre slightly inexcess of the degree to which it is normally twisted, setting the fibrein that twisted condition by immersing 35 it for about two and one-halfhours in water at about 10 C., drying the 'fibre, rewinding the fibre,twisting to a high degree and in the direction opposite to the twist ofthe cellulose acetate fibre silk fibre capable of sustaining such a high40 lose acetate yarn to about fifteen turns per inch, 50

setting the yarn in that twisted condition by immersing it for about twoand one-half hours in water at about 10 C., drying the yarn, rewindingthe yarn, twisting silk yarn to about seventy turns per inch and in thedirection opposite to'55 the twist of the cellulose acetate yarn, andthen twisting together the two yarns by twisting them in the directionof twist of the silk.

6. In a process of producing yarn for the manu-. facture of crepefabrics, wherein one of the con- 60 stituents of the yarn is ofcellulose acetate not elastically responsive when subjected to a highdegree of twist, the steps of twisting the cellulose acetate yarn toabout fifteen turns per inch, setting the yarn in that twisted conditionby im- 65 mersing it for about two and one-half hours in water at about10 C., drying the yarn, rewinding the yarn, twisting .silk yarn to aboutseventy turns per inch and in the direction opposite to the twist of thecellulose acetate yarn, and then I0 twisting together the two yarns bytwisting them about fifteen turns per inch in the direction of stituentsof the yarnis of cellulose acetate not elastically responsive whensubjected to a high degree of twist, the steps of: twisting thecellulose acetate yam to about fifteen turns per inch, setting the yarnin that twisted condition by immersing it for about two and one-halfhours in water at about 10 C., drying the-fibre, rewinding the yarn,twisting silk yarn to about seventy turns per inch and in the directionopposite to the tWiStf'Of the cellulose acetate yarn, then twistingtogether the two yarns to produce a yarn by twisting them about fifteenturns per inch in the direction of twist of the silk yarn, and settingthe yarn.

8. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein one of the constituents of the yarn is of cellulose acetate notelastically responsive when subjected to a high degree of twist, thesteps of: twisting the cellulose acetate yarn to about fifteen turns perinch, setting the yarn in that twisted condition byimmersing it forabout two and one-half hours in water at about 10 0., drying the fibrerewinding the yarn, twisting silk yarn to about seventy turns per inchand in the direction opposite to the twist of the cellulose acetateyarn, then twisting together the two yarns to produce a yarn by twistingthem about fifteen [turns per inch in the direction of twist of the silkyarn, and setting the yarn by steaming.

9. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein one of the constituents of the yarn is of cellulose acetate notelastically responsive when subjected to a high degree of twist, thesteps of: twisting the cellulose acetate yarn to about fifteen turns perinch, setting the yarn in that twisted condition by immersing it forabout two and one-half hours in water at about 10 C., drying the yarn,rewinding the yarn, twisting silk yarn to about seventy turns per inchand in the direction opposite to the twist of the Celanese acetate yarn,then twisting together the two yarns to produce a yarn by twisting themabout fifteen turns per inch in the direction of twistof the silk yarn,and setting the yarn by steaming.

10. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein a Celanese cellulose acetate yarn is one of the constituents ofthe yarn, the steps of: twisting the cellulose acetate yarn to aboutfifteen turns per inch, setting the yarn in that twisted condition byimmersing it for about two and one-half hours in 5 water at about C.,drying the yarn, rewinding the yarn, twisting silk yarn to about seventyturns per inch and in the direction opposite to the twist of thecellulose acetate yarn, then twisting together the two yarns to producea yarn by 1 twisting them about fifteen turns per inch in the directionof twist of the silk yarn, and setting the yarn by steaming for about anhour.

11. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein a cellulose acetate yarn is one of the constituents of the yarn,the steps of: twisting the cellulose acetate yarn to about fifteen turnsper inch, setting the yarn in that twisted condition by immersing it forabout two and one-half hours in water at about 10 C., drying the yarn,rewinding the yarn, twisting silk yarn to about seventy turns per inchand in the direction opposite to the twist of the cellulose acetateyarn, then twisting together the two yarns to produce a yarn bytwisting'them in the direction of twist of the silk yarn until thedegree of twist of the cellulose acetate yarn is reduced substantiallyto zero, and setting the yarn by steaming for about an hour.

12. In a process of producing yarn for the manufacture of crepe fabrics,wherein one of the constituents of the yarn is of cellulose acetate, thesteps of: twisting the cellulose acetate yarn to about fifteen turns perinch, setting the yarn in that twisted condition by immersing it forabout two and one-half hours in water at about 10 C., drying the yarn,rewinding the yarn, twisting silk yarn of much smaller cross-sectionalarea than the cellulose acetate yarn to about seventy turns per inch inthe direction opposite 40 to the twist of the cellulose acetate yarn,then twisting together the two yarns to produce a yarn by twisting themin the direction of twist of the silk yarn until the degree of twist ofthecellulose acetate yarn is reduced substantially to zero, and settingthe yarn by steaming for about an hour.

LHLTON H. RUBIN.

